This as-told-to essay is based on a conversation with Greg Petronzi of True Patina, a watchmaker specializing in vintage Rolex repairs. He is also a licensed psychologist and professor at New York University. This interview has been edited for length and clarity.
I’ve always had a fascination with watches, starting at a young age. Around middle school, I had a Swatch with a see-through plastic case and an automatic movement. You could see all of the parts of the watch as it was working, and I always found that so interesting.
In college, I pursued psychology. That was my practical career path. I got a master’s and a Ph.D. Overall, it was a 12-year path to becoming a licensed psychologist. But I never lost my interest in watches.
After I finished school, I got into watchmaking, which ended up becoming my main gig. Psychology became my part-time gig, which I never anticipated happening, but it’s super exciting. I love both disciplines.
I got into watchmaking with an informal apprenticeship
Watchmaking was never really on my radar. As a grad student, I started getting involved in the world of watches and meeting other watch enthusiasts through forums and meetups.
I made friends with a watchmaker out of Florida named Rik Dietel, who has 35-plus years of experience in watchmaking and specifically with vintage Rolex, which is the niche that I was very passionate about. I started asking him how to fix this or change that on my own watches. Little by little, Rik started teaching me, and it turned into an informal, remote apprenticeship.
Over the next several years, while I was working as a psychologist and professor, my skillset started to really develop, and it started to become apparent to me that this might be more than just a hobby. I was working on my own stuff, then friends’ watches, then friends of friends’ watches. Then I started getting requests from people I didn’t know. That’s when I said, “I’d better take this a bit more seriously.”
During the pandemic, my psychology work went remote, and I was able to put more time and energy into watchmaking. I also had an income, which helped me afford the tools. I just recently spent about $15,000 on one tool to do a very nuanced repair.
I built up my watchmaking workshop and started to develop a niche in cosmetic repair — dials and hands. Because I started as a watch collector, I understand the importance of preserving the originality of a watch. While a lot of more modern watchmakers have the disposition of “repair and replace,” I have the disposition of “restore and retain.”
I started to showcase my work on Instagram and build trust in the community. I ended up working with some really important watch collectors and dealers, like Eric Wind of Wind Vintage, and auction houses like Phillips.
There was a moment when I realized I’d made a name for myself in the watch world: Someone sent me an eBay listing that said, “Watch just serviced by True Patina.” I had no idea who the seller was, but I thought, “Wow, my company name is actually carrying so much weight that people are using this as a flex toward selling their watch.” That felt really good.
Watchmaking can be challenging to get into, but it’s really rewarding
Watchmaking has more often than not outperformed what the Ph.D and psychology have allowed me to earn, which I’m astounded by and grateful for.
If someone’s interested in learning watchmaking, I’d say it’s possible, but there are some challenges. The tools are expensive, and the formal education options are limited. Most people either find an apprenticeship or start by working for an established brand while slowly building up their own workshop.
My pricing varies a lot based on how much restoration is needed. Repairs typically range between $1,000 and $2,000, but some go up to $6,000 or more, especially if a rare part needs to be sourced.
I service watches that range in price from a few thousand dollars upward to six-figure watches. It’s not uncommon for me to work on a watch that costs $200,000 and occasionally even up to $500,000. Most commonly, they are a few thousand up to $20,000. But what’s most meaningful to me is working on sentimental pieces — watches that have been in families for generations.
Becoming a watchmaker never crossed my mind as a kid or even as a college student. But all of a sudden, it organically became reality for me, and it’s a very, very meaningful and enjoyable existence.
Watchmaking is a very rewarding field. It can be very stressful, especially when the repair might not be cooperating the way you want it to, but when things do fall in line, it can be a very mindful activity. You get into this flow where time just sort of ceases. It’s kind of ironic.
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