Nothing says Tuesday morning like a mysteriously chunky, not entirely disappointing $2 pineapple cold brew.
At least not if you’re close to a Luckin Coffee, the Chinese chain that has overtaken Starbucks in China and opened its first two US locations this week in Manhattan. The brand aims to lure customers in with low prices and consistent promos.
I visited the Greenwich Village location on Tuesday morning. All ordering happens on the app, which I quickly downloaded before hopping on the subway. I was a bit overwhelmed at first, my phone screen suddenly filled with brightly colored “summer essentials” and a surprising recommended drink: pineapple cold brew.
The prices were maybe more surprising than the flavors — because of an opening promo, every drink cost just $1.99. I went with the pineapple cold brew and a “solar breeze,” which is a mix of blood orange and grapefruit flavors.
My drinks were waiting for me when I arrived at the small store, and an employee helped me scan the QR code attached to my order to pick them up. I wasn’t alone in my confusion; employees politely helped most customers figure out the QR code situation.
Slight confusion about the pick-up aside, the ordering process was pretty fast and seamless, but it lacked a human connection. In fact, the whole place seemed impersonal, with nondescript wall photographs and everyone staring at their phones by design.
One thing to know before I give my reviews: I’m something of a coffee purist. I generally drink black drip or an iced coffee with a splash of milk. Maybe I’ll get a dirty chai or a cappuccino if I’m feeling crazy. Needless to say, I’m not the ideal customer for fruit-infused cold brew or “iced coconut velvet latte,” whatever that entails.
My first sip of the pineapple cold brew just tasted like chunky pineapple juice — not bad, but not coffee. After some aggressive cup shaking, I took another sip. This time, it also tasted like chunky pineapple juice, just more watered down. Weirdly, I wasn’t mad about it.
The solar breeze was pleasantly sour and also unexpectedly filled with orange chunks. I probably would’ve preferred it in the afternoon rather than at 10 am, but I can see why juice aficionados would be pleased.
Bruce Leon, 53, told me he actually liked the chunkiness of the pineapple cold brew, because it suggested the drink wasn’t made from syrup. He said he’d never heard of Luckin before, but plans to come back with a friend. Chelsea, 33, also didn’t know about the brand but walked in because it’s across from her subway stop. Her plain cold brew was, she said, “really good.”
Courtney Kraft, 30, however, knew all about Luckin’s presence in China and was visiting for a second time. She was doing work at one of the few tables and sipping a coconut water matcha, which she said was “delicious.”
Jeremy, 28, learned about Luckin from the news and ordered an iced coconut latte. I witnessed Jeremy’s first Luckin sip, which was met with a content head nod. “It’s good!” he said. He said he thought the quality matched Starbucks, but he preferred Starbucks’ app.
Of everyone I spoke with, Evan, 30, was by far the biggest Luckin expert — he’d been to locations in Shanghai, where he’s from. His go-to is the iced coconut latte, and he said he remembers constant promos at the locations in Shanghai.
At this point, I had to try the iced coconut latte, which was unavailable when I first ordered because the location was entirely out of milk. I added a “chocolate frappe” and banana yogurt bread, one of the few food offerings, to my order, too.
The latte didn’t taste much like coconut, but also didn’t taste too strongly of coffee. I hadn’t had a frappe since middle school, when I would order a double-chocolately chip frappuccino from Starbucks and convince myself I was caffeinated. It tasted like a moderately icy milkshake, though, so I wasn’t complaining.
By now, I was weighed down with four cups, and I assume everyone in Luckin thought I was completely insane. An employee kindly handed me two bags for my many purchases, the retail version of the Oscars walk-off music.
Everyone I talked to raved about the prices, especially in New York City, where Courtney said she can pay up to $15 for a specialty drink. At Luckin’s NYC store, a regular-price iced latte costs $5.75, compared to $5.95 at Starbucks, but the company is known for frequent discounts. Jeremy said that with the promo, the prices are unbeatable. Even though Starbucks is his preferred coffee, he said cost is more important than other factors.
Analysts previously told BI that Luckin’s model of offering heavily discounted prices may not be sustainable in the US, though Starbucks’ increasingly high costs might offer an opening. Representatives declined to comment for this article.
While standing outside, I saw a young woman pass the sign advertising coffee for $1.99, double back, and download the app.
I can’t say I’ll necessarily be back at Luckin, but again, I’m a coffee purist, and this brand doesn’t seem to cater to those of us who think less is more. Generally, the New Yorkers I talked to seemed pleased and eager to return, especially if the discounts keep rolling in.
I wouldn’t be shocked if Starbucks, already struggling with falling sales, soon starts offering summer promos on some sort of fruity, unlikely coffee concoction.
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